Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city comes as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently defined its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their children do not want to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these stories and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
